Nintendo Switch OLED repairs
Screens, charging ports, charging ICs and fans on the Nintendo Switch OLED. Board-level work done in house, not sent away.
Repairs
Something is broken or worn out.
Cracked glass, a dead panel, lines, or touch that has stopped answering. On the OLED model the glass and the panel are one bonded part, which is what sets this apart from the original Switch.
What’s included in the price
- Replacement part — no hidden extras
- Fitting & labour by in-house technicians
- Full function test before handover
- Up to 12-month warranty
- Diagnostic fee credited towards this repair
- Your data stays untouched
Charges only at an angle, charges intermittently, or will not dock. The USB-C port is soldered to the board, so this is microscope work rather than a plug-in part.
What’s included in the price
- Replacement part — no hidden extras
- Fitting & labour by in-house technicians
- Full function test before handover
- Up to 12-month warranty
- Diagnostic fee credited towards this repair
- Your data stays untouched
Where a damaged port has taken the charging chip on the mainboard with it — the repair a port swap alone does not fix.
What’s included in the price
- Replacement part — no hidden extras
- Fitting & labour by in-house technicians
- Full function test before handover
- Up to 12-month warranty
- Diagnostic fee credited towards this repair
- Your data stays untouched
A fan that whines, rattles or has stopped — and a console that gets hot and throttles because of it.
What’s included in the price
- Replacement part — no hidden extras
- Fitting & labour by in-house technicians
- Full function test before handover
- Up to 12-month warranty
- Diagnostic fee credited towards this repair
- Your data stays untouched
When the fault is not obvious. We test the console handheld and docked, open it where needed, and give you a written price to put it right.
What the assessment fee covers
- Full assessment by an in-house technician
- An honest verdict on what is wrong
- A firm price before any repair starts
- Fee credited towards the repair — you pay the balance of the quote
- No obligation to proceed
Know the fault, but don’t see it listed? Describe it and we’ll price it from your description — free, no device needed. Not sure what’s wrong? That’s what the Diagnostics Service above is for.
Consoles in a venue, a school or a games café? We service them in batches, with collection, return and a single invoice. Business repairs
What Is It Doing?
Start with the symptom — working out which part it is, is our job. We repair consoles, not detachable Joy-Cons.
Charges only at an angle
The port wears out after a few thousand dockings. Brought in now it is one repair; left running, it shorts and becomes two.
Cracked screen
On the OLED the glass and the panel are bonded, so there is no cheaper glass-only answer here.
Black or lined display
A panel fault. The OLED assembly is its own part and does not swap with any other Switch.
Hot, or loud across the room
Usually a fan packed with dust; sometimes a worn bearing. You hear which in the load test.
Dead, even on the charger
More often the charging circuit than the battery. Telling those apart is the first job.
New port, still not charging
The charging chip went with the old port. That is the repair a port swap alone leaves behind.
Handheld fine, docked not
Bring the dock as well. Half of these are the dock, and testing the pair costs nothing extra.
Burn-in on the screen
Rare, and not repairable — it is the panel itself. We will tell you if that is what you have.
Something got spilt on it
Do not charge it and do not power it on. Taken on assessment, not at a fixed price.
None of these?
Rails, buttons, speakers, card readers, consoles other shops turned away. Describe it and we will price it.
Board-Level Repair, in Plain Terms
Almost everything that fails on a Switch OLED is soldered to the mainboard: the charging port, the chip behind it, the card reader, the Joy-Con rails. A shop that only fits clip-in parts hands these back. We do them on the same bench that repairs laptop mainboards.
You keep your own console
Your games, saves and account stay on it. A replacement console arrives empty.
You see the price first
Diagnostics is £39 and comes off the bill when the repair goes ahead. You get the fault, the price and the timescale before anything is opened.
A new port alone often will not fix it
A port that has been shorting usually takes the charging chip with it. That is why there are two prices on this page, and why the diagnosis decides which one you pay.
Six months on board work
Board-level repairs carry a 6-month warranty. Tested handheld and docked, with your own charger and dock where you have sent them.
We diagnose before we quote, and quote before we touch anything. If the board is not worth repairing, we tell you that and why.
Bonded glass is the one real difference
On the original Switch a cracked front over a working display is often just glass, and that is the cheaper of the two screen jobs. The OLED does not offer that choice: the glass, the panel and the touch layer are bonded into one assembly, so a crack means the assembly. It is worth knowing before you compare a quote for this console against one for the original, because the difference is the part and not the labour.
Why a new port sometimes changes nothing
A worn USB-C port can short against the board, and when it does it usually takes the charging chip with it. Fit a new port on a console in that state and it still will not charge — which is exactly how these arrive here, after somebody else has already done the visible half of the repair. We test the charging circuit before quoting, so you find out which of the two jobs you are paying for before the work starts, not after.
Bring the dock, and bring a game
A console that works handheld and not docked is roughly as likely to be a failed dock as a failed console, and the only way to tell is to have both on the bench. The same goes for the charger. So bring the lot — console, charger, cable, dock and something to run — and we test the whole chain rather than the one part you happened to suspect.
Charging Only at an Angle? Stop Now
One Switch fault gets materially more expensive every day it is used.
-
1
A Port That Needs Holding
If the cable has to sit just so, the port is already loose on the board. Left running it shorts, and a short takes the charging chip with it — one repair becomes two.
-
2
A Console That Will Not Charge At All
Stop trying different chargers. If the port has already shorted, more current through it does not help, and it is the board that pays for the experiment.
-
3
Bring the Whole Set
Console, charger, cable, the dock and a game. We test on your own kit — a good share of these turn out to be the charger or the dock rather than the console.
The fault does not fix itself and it does not stay the same size. If it still charges some of the time, that is the cheap moment to bring it in, not after it stops entirely.
Ways to Use Our Service
Two ways to get your Switch OLED repaired — bring it to Wimbledon, or post it from anywhere in the UK.
What We Do, How, and Why Us
The four things that actually break on this console: the charging port, the chip behind it when the port has shorted, the bonded OLED panel, and the fan. All of it soldered work rather than clip-in parts, done on the same bench as laptop mainboards. One workshop in Wimbledon, and post-in from anywhere in the UK.
Diagnosis comes before a price, always. A console that will not charge can be the cable, the dock, the port, the charging chip or the battery, and those are five different bills — so it gets tested rather than guessed at. Bring the charger and the dock with it and we test on your own kit.
We also say no. Joy-Con drift is a controller repair and we do not take it. If the fault is the dock rather than the console, you get told that and charged for the smaller job. And when a repair costs more than the console is worth to you, you get that number rather than a quiet invoice.
What Customers Say
Every repair carries a warranty. These are unedited reviews left on Google and Trustpilot.
Good to Know
The questions we are asked most about Switch OLED repairs.
Not answered here? Ask us — we reply the same working day.
My screen is cracked but it still works. Can you just do the glass?
Not on the OLED. The glass, the display and the touch layer are bonded into a single assembly here, so a crack means replacing the assembly. On the original Switch that glass-only repair does exist, which is why the two consoles are quoted differently.
I had the port replaced and it still will not charge. What now?
Almost always the charging chip on the mainboard, which a shorted port takes with it. A port swap alone leaves that behind, so the console looks repaired and behaves exactly as it did. It is component-level work under the microscope and it is a job we do regularly.
It works handheld but not in the dock. Is the console broken?
Not necessarily — docks fail more often than people expect. Bring both and we test the pair, which costs nothing extra and quite often ends with a dock repair rather than a console repair.
Do you repair Joy-Con drift?
No. On this console the Joy-Cons detach, so drift is a controller repair, and it rarely justifies the bench time next to the price of a replacement pair. The rail on the console side is board work and that we do take.
How long does a repair take?
Charging ports and fans are usually one to two working days. Screens depend on the panel arriving. Charging IC work is two to four, because it is microscope time rather than a swap. You get the timescale with the quote rather than after.
Can I post it to you?
Yes, from anywhere in the UK. Send the console with its charger, cable and the dock if you have one — we test on your own kit. Pack it in something rigid and send it tracked; everything comes back with it once it has been repaired and tested.